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Treehouse treats at Squirrel, South Ken

Like me, the people at Squirrel are sick of the vicious rumour that salads are boring. Salads are almost always cast as a limp green sidekick, but they can be beautiful and varied beasts in their own...

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Talli Joe delivers on Eastern promise

I can’t say I was terribly impressed with Talli Joe the first time I visited, on the second day of the soft launch back in May. I wrote maybe half a blog post on it before deciding that such a scathing...

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Buns that wow at Mr Bao

I first tried the bao at the eponymous Soho restaurant a couple of months ago after a few false starts that invariably ended in a cry of, ‘Bugger this for a game of soliders, let’s go to the pub!’ I’m...

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A new kind of ‘cue at Smokestak, Shoreditch

The other day I was listening to the radio and on came a track by Taking Back Sunday, which was one of my favourite bands as a teenager. As moody adolescents my little chums and I had re-appropriated...

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The Vincent is E8’s new local hero

The Vincent is a new venture from the guys behind the Sebright Arms in Shoreditch, which I remember fondly from my formative years as a Londoner because pioneering proper burger company Lucky Chip were...

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Guilt-free Burmese comfort food at Lahpet

I had made a grave error in wearing a white top for the evening. I could be forgiven, because we were going to Lahpet, a newish Burmese restaurant near London Fields. What do the Burmese eat? I hadn’t...

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The Kitchens at Old Spitalfields are a cornucopia of culinary talent

Most of my mates think I’m a snob. And, well. I am a bit. But that’s because they think I only want to go to expensive restaurants, which isn’t right at all. A restaurant doesn’t have to cost a lot of...

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Padella: believe the hype

I am so, so late to the Padella party, it was almost barely worth me turning up. Almost. With plaudits from professional critics, local bloggers and the Tripadvisor crowd, if you set store by that...

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Fast food done good at Butchies, Shoreditch

Pick two: good, fast, or cheap. It’s a truism that applies to pretty much everything, but especially food and restaurants. Example: in our formative years, my mate Maxine and I used to pick up a KFC...

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Monsieur Le Duck, Spitalfields

I am in two minds about one-dish restaurants.  On one hand, they can be a little gimmicky. On the other, I like the idea of focusing on a single ingredient, whether it’s chops (Blacklock), fried...

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